SeaChoice Profile

Bridges Over Troubled Waters: An Interview with Rob Clark

This profile was written by SeaChoice Program Coordinator Taina Uitto

Nu Restaurant and Lounge (owned by Harry Kambolis of C Restaurant and Raincity Grill) seems the perfect setting to talk about sustainable seafood. The salty ocean perfumes the air, the sound of gulls complements the friendly restaurant chatter, and we have a perfect view of the Granville Island Market and Fishermen’s Wharf across the water. Furthermore, what better person to have sitting across the table than Executive Chef Rob Clark?

The three restaurants adopted a philosophy and objective to be “21st Century Responsible”. This meant creating sustainable menus and fostering awareness of the issues affecting not only their own business as a seafood provider, but everyone’s “ecological futures”. The restaurant staff embraced this worldview, as did Mr. Clark, who has become a spokesperson for the sustainable seafood movement. In Mr. Clark’s words, it’s not what they do, it’s who they are: “It makes it so much easier when you believe in it.”

Chef Rob Clark (left) at the David Suzuki Foundation Fish Forever event with (from right) fisheries scientist Dr. Daniel Pauly, Dr. David Suzuki, and former B.C. premier Glen Clark. (Photo courtesy of 24 Hours).

Mr. Clark’s enthusiasm, commitment, and belief in a more sustainable world are commendable and inspirational, but I was also interested in the business side of things. What does it take to make a successful and economically viable shift to sustainable seafood products? What are the bridges over these troubled waters?

The first bridge Mr. Clark mentions is accessing credible information. He views the SeaChoice website as a great educational resource for information about fisheries issues and solutions. The staff at C, Nu, and Raincity Grill are committed to sharing this information with customers, always encouraging them to engage in this important dialogue. Mr. Clark is firm in his belief that people should know where their food comes from and how their purchasing choices can make a difference.

The second bridge is that “the sources [of sustainable seafood] are there.” Certain Canadian fisheries are harvesting seafood sustainably from local waters. Mr. Clark adds that the more awareness that can be built among Canadian seafood suppliers, the easier sustainable sourcing will get. Being on the coast is, of course, somewhat of an advantage; while we dine, Mr. Clark points out the fishing boats docking across the water loaded with “his” prawns.

Furthermore, Mr. Clark is confident that restaurants do not have to compromise their bottom lines or charge more for sustainable products – it’s about finding sustainable solutions and building creative menus. He wonders why any restaurant wouldn’t want to serve sustainably harvested seafood, which is of superior quality. He mentions that customers are never disappointed by the absence of an unsustainable menu item like Chilean seabass. On the contrary, his customers appreciate being provided with a diversity of high quality, sustainable choices. (Personally, I went with the B.C. side-stripe prawn baguette and not once did I long for the stale-tasting, farmed tiger prawns from Asia.)

After a very satisfying meal, I ask Mr. Clark for some last words of advice, especially for smaller businesses interested in going green. Why should anyone join the sustainable seafood movement?

“If you have children, the answer is obvious,” he says. But, from a chef’s point of view, he adds, “it is also a no-brainer.” He reiterates that it’s about choices and quality. If we act as responsible stewards of our oceans, we can continue to benefit from a diversity of high-quality seafood products well into the future. And, with the movement of species away from the red (“Avoid”) category, we can eventually even expand the menu of seafood options.

I don’t think that I could have put it better myself.